Toothless in Africa

Vision: When I get home I am going to listen to live jazz. Good jazz, not the crappy kind. I am going to drink a ridiculously expensive craft beer and sit cross legged in my chair on the patio in a flowy summer dress and close my eyes and smell the muggy air mixed with smoke and music. This will preferably be in New Orleans, but I won’t get too picky.

I’ve felt a little stagnant lately. Tonight I had a burst of creative energy that for some reason gets stifled when I am here so concerned with something that keeps it under wraps. Cultural sensitivity, integration, people staring, not being able to explain myself in Bambara, whatever. Someone told me that Malians are going to think you’re weird no matter what… so taking that to heart gives me more wiggle room to be myself. That and to stick up for myself more. Some of the problems I could have seen myself running into in Koyan may have been a result of being afraid to be mean, but I realize now that I have to set cleaner and more ridged boundaries in order to be a more successful volunteer, to remain safe… and to keep my sanity.

It’s been 22 days since I left Koyan. It feels like 5 months. I’ve been keeping positive for the most part until I get to thinking about leaving behind all of my kids in there. I am worried what they will think when I come back to collect my things. I wonder if they will be excited to see me or if they will be mad and act distant. I feel like I am abandoning them and I know it isn’t my fault but that doesn’t stop me from feeling guilty. I grew so close to those little people during the two months I was there. They are what I will miss the most. Bamu, Issa, Bablen, Fatoumata, Jella, Bafi, Mariamu, Basuru, Baji, Garantigi, Ina, Kadja, Fatoumata, Madou, Lemieri, Kadja, Bua, Fanta, Sa, and Burama along with so many of my other little peeps in village. We used to play this game where one person would say “An ka taa Bamako” “Let’s go to Bamako” or some other village and we would run around with our arms outstretched like an airplane and make airplane noises. We would do this for all the cities we could name in Mali and it never got old. I miss Kadja’s face that looked so mean when she was sad or pretending to be mad at someone and all I would say was her name and her face would light up into a beautiful smile. Kadja was one of my favorites. I would tell the kids that fighting and hitting was bad when they would hit each other and any time someone would get in a fight she would look at me and say “kele a manye!” or “fighting, it’s bad!” and then smile… and maybe hit someone for fighting. I thought she was a boy at first when I came to Koyan because of her short hair (I am assuming she had to get it shaved because of lice which happens every now and then). I went around asking the kids their names and when they told me that another girl’s name was Kadja too I almost said “But she’s a girl and he’s a boy!” She is looked after by my host grandma in our compound and her mom lives in a compound that is around a 15 minute walk from ours. I am assuming her mom maybe was really young and unwed when she had Kadja or is going to school far away. I think her lack of a strong mother figure made us closer.

I am sure the new kiddos at my next site will be the bomb too… but I am going to miss the Koyan crew.

Here is a picture of Fatoumata, Fanta, and Kadja on the right. Fatoumata and Fanta are the bomb too.

Here’s what’s been going on since I got to Senegal.

I got to Senegal on October 29^th and immediately the Senegal volunteers were great and welcoming. I went out with some volunteers for a Halloween type romp to a few bars. After that, various people have been in and out of the medical unit where I am staying (which is in a different location than the volunteer transit house). A volunteer from Gambia named Lina left last night but we became friends during her time here and it was so nice to have her company. There are also two other med evacs that are volunteers from Burkina Faso that have been fun to hang out with. People from several countries come to this regional Peace Corps medical office as ‘medical evacuations” when the medical facilities in our countries aren’t up to Peace Corps’ standards for the type of work we need done. We’ve been watching a lot of Grey’s Anatomy, Friends, and any other silly TV show that can give us hours of entertainment on end as we pass the days we must spend here, lengthened by never-ending Malian and American Holidays and doctors not showing up to work. Luckily my dentist is the bomb and is going to let me come in on Saturday to clear me so I can fly out on Monday morning if all heals well with my mouth-hole situation (I am here because I needed a tooth pulled).

Dakar is really beautiful in places on the coast and the city itself is very developed, especially compared to Bamako. I haven’t done too much exploring other than going out onto the tip of the peninsula that juts out into the ocean twice. Lina and I sat out on the cliffs and looked at the waves and sun reflecting on the water and talked about the hardships in education in Mali and Gambia. There is a lot that needs to happen before things get better, but at least we can feel like we are helping a little bit.

IST (In service training) is coming up on Monday. I’m ready to be surrounded by my people again. Some people let you be yourself in such a way that it is a gift to be with them. I feel that more intensely with others in service work (shout out to my AmeriCorps peeps), and my stage of volunteers is no exception. I want to hear their stories and frustrations and be goofy and dance and smile and laugh. Dave’s birthday is on Tuesday, and I am grateful that I will be there for it since at first I wasn’t expected to leave until after the 15^th.

During IST we are going to learn more about projects that we can do in our villages. We will get information about our own sectors as well as how to implement various food security initiatives and we will get some technical training on things like moringa tree planting. I’m excited to learn these new skills but I think I probably speak for all of us in our stage saying that we’re more excited to see each other. Some of us haven’t seen each other since the beginning of August when we first went to our sites. I’ve been lucky to see Mary, Kat, Jenna, Renate, Lucas, and Dave but can’t wait to see everyone else!

That’s all I’ll say for now. Hopefully I will have more details on potential projects, and more information about my new site soon. I hope you’re all doing well in the States. I can’t say that I envy those of you who have been getting snow. We are entering into cold season here too but our “cold” is substantially more tropical than you Minnesota and Michigan folks. I will, however miss my Dad’s amazing Thanksgiving mashed potatoes and Wendy’s pies made from scratch. Yummmmmm! I miss you all and love you and thank you again for all of your support and for reading about my life. Send me e-mails so I can read about yours too! I will even bless you with a Malian name if you want one! But don’t worry, I won’t make anyone be a Traore… they eat beans.

Peace (Corps), Love (bugs), and Happiness (I couldn’t think of one for here) to you all!

Love,

Jamie

Dooni Doonevenworryaboutit

Oh heeeeey!

Greetings from Texas! Jk, I’m still in Mali.

I hope you’re all doing well and enjoying the new crisp fall air of October. This is truly one of my favorite times of the year in the States and I am sad to miss it. The other day while I was bucket bathing outside the air felt like and smelled like fall (specifically Halloween), and I got all nostalgic for home. I’ve been very nostalgic for home lately actually. Random memories pop into my head from all times of my life and from all places I’ve been. Memories that I haven’t thought about in years.  Something about being here so completely out of my element stirs them up at the strangest of times.

This past week has had its ups and downs. I think the Malaria medication I am on gets me a little out of sorts for a few days after I take it. That combined with awkward social situations in which I don’t quite know how to handle myself and the language barrier offer some unique frustrations. But for every rough time there are 10 happy times of playing with the kids in my compound, understanding a new phrase that I didn’t know before, having my host grandmother tell me that my work is good, or feeling the cool wind on my face and arms as is blows in my window during a lightning storm at night. There are great moments that happen every day and remind me why I’m here.

Since my last post I have been to two funerals and one baby welcoming ceremony. These are important ceremonies for me to attend to gain the trust and respect of the people of my village. If I don’t go to these types of events people will talk about me and say that I don’t care about people, or don’t consider people.

The two deaths were both very old women who were revered and respected throughout the community. Hundreds of people came to these events to give blessings and money to the family of the deceased, and to sit around and socialize and eat good food. The ladies of my compound were busy cooking at the first ceremony so I sat with some other women who took me under their wing. I hung out with them at the second ceremony too, and now we’re best buds. Malian people are so warm and welcoming like that. You meet someone one time and then you’re friends from then on. It makes me think of sometimes in the states when you see an acquaintance on the street and both of you pretend not to see each other (ok I don’t know if you guys do that, but I totally have). It’s not like that here. I am even buds with people by association because the last volunteer in my village and in the village next to mine were buds with them.

Here are some silly things that you should know about:

1.)    Women’s breasts. – when I was first learning about Mali and the culture before arriving here I assumed that since it is a predominantly Muslim country there would be tight cultural restrictions on women’s clothing, and to some degree that is true of the bottom half of the picture, but women’s breasts are EVERYWHERE here. You may notice this in some of my facebook pictures as some of the women were breastfeeding when thy asked for me to take their pictures. I mention this because one of my favorite experiences in Mali so far happened yesterday at the baby welcoming ceremony and it involves breasts. Three musokoroba (old women) got into the middle of a circle of people (like at any dance party), took of their tops and head wraps, danced wildly, screamed, threw water over their heads, and sang as we all stood around and clapped and laughing. These are women probably in their 70’s who had the energy and agility of women in their 20’s. It was such an interesting place to be, standing at the edge of the circle looking on. It was a powerful experience and I am not poetic enough of a writer to do it justice. Some of the ladies on the outside of the circle told me to take pictures. I didn’t have my camera on me at that time, but I probably would have felt pretty strange taking topless pictures of old ladies. I did take some later of the three ladies holding the two new babies if you want to check that out…

2.)    The Malian independence day was last week and the teenage- 20-something boys in the village held a soccer match in celebration. I played with them for a little bit and kicked the ball around a few times. One of the guys even said to me in English “very very good!” – I felt pretty cool. Brought me back to the AYSO days… but there were no juice boxes or snacks after the game. J All of the children and young girls came out to watch the game too. I want to buy a soccer ball while I am in Bamako and start playing soccer with the girls since they are a little shy to play, but I know they want to.

3.)    Badenni, the baby goat that I love, is growing up just nicely. It is good to see him putting on weight and thriving, even without his mother, but it is also sad because I know that the bigger he grows, the closer he is to becoming the centerpiece of a funeral or baby welcoming ceremony. Once in a while I pet him and scratch his ears. It makes me miss my cat Pumpkin back home in Minnesota.  My Malian family thinks this is so weird and they just laugh and shake their heads and say “Eeeh, Assetou!!”. The other night when I walked into the second room of my house Badenni was standing at the door, about to walk in but he got scared and ran away.

4.)    Speaking of goats- yesterday at the baby party there was a goat skin spread out on the ground with the goats head and chopped off legs on top of it. The children were playing with the head and shoving the goats hooved foot into its own mouth. It was pretty disturbing to me, but that’s just life here! Later I had to politely refuse that same goat’s meat as I sat eating with several women who were holding out chunks for me to eat. “N fara tew! A barika” –I said. “I’m completely full. Thank you.”

5.)    It is corn harvest time in my village. This means a lot of delicious hot grilled corn on the cob, and time spent shucking corn which is nice to do with the ladies of my compound and chat. This also means it is the beginning of the end of hungry season which occurred before the harvest when food from the previous year’s harvest may have run out for some families. This is good news since a lot of kids in my village are looking dangerously thin. I am going to try to work on some food security initiatives in my village soon.

6.)    This really isn’t anything important, but it’s the little things that make me happy nowadays – I finally found nailpolish remover in this country! I hadn’t brought any with me and couldn’t find any – it was driving me crazy, and now I can relax.

7.)    School starts this week – 4 of the older boys in my compound left today to continue their studies in bigger cities. I will miss them. They were really welcoming and helpful during my initial adjustment here and I think we grew to be good friends. They’ll all be gone for the next 8 months. This also means the kids will start going to the school in my village. I’ll be able to see first-hand some of the issues my school has such as space, teacher quality, and so on.

8.)    A lady at the funeral this week grabbed my boobs, People do this to each other a lot… but I don’t think I want to get used to it. I ran away from her and said “ A manye” which means “bad”. If my villagers want to think I’m weird because I don’t let people touch my boobs, then I’m okay with that!

9.)    If you were thinking about sending me a package, don’t! Instead, save that money you would have spent for when I inevitably ask you to donate to help with a big project. My village wants to build an addition onto the school since the classrooms are severely overcrowded (like 80 kids in a class), and if I take on that project I will probably need to do a little fundraising. I know it is annoying when people ask you for money, and I hate doing it… but I see it as this is a great way to 100% know that the money you are donating is going to exactly what is intended for and not being siphoned away into people’s pockets which happens all the time with foreign aid. Example on a small scale: used clothing that is sent over to be given away is sold in every market in Mali. That clothing got into the hands of people who sell it for profit. Even Mali’s government has issues with corruption – with stories of little money reaching its final destination for education or sanitation because it has been lining the pockets of people on the way down. If you donate when I put the word out, you will know where your money is going, and be able to see tangible results. BAM!

10.)  Read 9 again… and start saving your pennies!

I hope this post finds you all well and healthy. Shoot an email my way with the details of your life. Extra points go to emails about really good food you ate so I can live vicariously through you. The greatest thing I have eaten in Mali I ate today – it was a delicious sandwich on French bread with sweet potato fries, and onion sauce, salt, and a hardboiled egg. Dee-lish. Malian street food at its finest in my opinion. I was so incredibly hot and sweaty while I was eating it walking up a hill to go to my friend Mary’s house, and Malians were looking at me like I was a crazy Toubob, but it was so good that I couldn’t stop eating it and I just let the sweat pour down my face. Good visual, I know.

Thanks for taking the time to read this post. I appreciate all of your love and support throughout this journey. I couldn’t do it without you guys! Know that if I accomplish any good thing here you have contributed to it in some way!

Love and miss you all

Jamie (Assetou) Casterton (Diarra) – that’s a mouthful!

Candy-Palooza

Cockadooooodledoooo! Greetings from Mali (where the roosters begin their day at 4:00AM)!

Currently my friends Kat, Mary, and I are in Bamako, Mali’s capital city where Peace Corps ‘ office is. We are going to do a little shopping in places where we can get things we can’t get in our villages, and check in at the office to exchange some books in the library, pick up packages, and resupply on medical items.

I am WAY excited to get the letters and packages some of you have sent. My mom and Dad sent a package with a Frisbee that I know my kids will get a kick out of. Speaking of my kids, I will try to upload some pictures on here but if they don’t load, check out my facebook page to see some of them. I tried to get them to smile for the pictures, since they are always smiling in real life and I want you all to see them looking happy, but a lot of Malians don’t smile for pictures, so most of them aren’t smiling. They LOVED seeing the pictures though on the camera screen when I took them and burst into laughter and smiles when I showed them their images. It was the first time I took photos of my family here but I have a feeling they are going to want to take a lot more when I get back since they enjoyed it so much.

Life at site has been going very well.  Every day I become more comfortable and my language improves. I even surprised myself with what I was able to squeak out when my host father was asking me questions the other night. Also the other day when I was running (on a BEAUTIFUL dirt road that goes to one of the market towns nearby) two dogs started barking at me and chasing me a little bit and my gut reaction was to yell at them to stop in Bambara… so I think that is a good sign of language learning. I also picked up a life skills book at the Peace Corps office with Bambara translations and I think that will be helpful in language acquisition as well.

Some of you have been asking about what work I am doing right now and what my job duties or projects are. Mostly right now for these first three months after being installed at our sites we are focusing on language acquisition, community integration. We are also supposed to complete three community needs assessments  education, food security, and gender analysis) during this time. I haven’t begun these needs assessments as I don’t feel like my language is at the level to be successful, and I think I will begin around the start of our second month at site. Pretty much what I do during a given day is wake up, greet the people in my compound, eat breakfast, go to my teacher’s house for an hour of Bambara class, do chores, play with my kids, sit around with the older girls while they braid hair, and sometimes go with my Grandma to other compounds to greet people.  When my family shells shea nuts or peanuts I help them do that, and sometimes I go to the fields to pick up the weeds that the women are removing with their “dabas”, or weeding hoes. Once a week I go to the market in one of two towns around where I am to stock up on food.

Here are a couple of things that happened this past week:

1.)    When I was cooking dinner, two goats tried to walk into my house. (Dave said that if I ate meat I would have had a free meal)

2.)    I killed another scorpion in my house this week and left it on the ground when I went to bed. When I woke up it was gone. I am assuming the army of crickets took it away to be eaten.

3.)    A chicken is roosting on the wall of my compound and has around 12 eggs there. I can’t wait for the chickies to hatch (CHICS!)

4.)    Mary and I unsuccessfully tried to resolve an issue with our tailor in Kati (who made really unflattering clothing for us, omitted the headscarves and one skirt that I had asked for, and decided not to refund me for those items for which I already paid). I am bad at handling these situations in the states and with the language barrier it was crazy! Luckily I’m only out around $2 USD.

5.)    Some of the little girls in my compound were really happy with me the other day because I helped them wash their dishes and do some chores. They took me around to little secret spots like where the boys play drums in the millet field, and to some gardens I hadn’t seen before. Then they wanted to take me to the place where they poop by a tree so they could poop… I told them I would meet them back at home.

There’s a little glimpse into my life here!

I miss you all at home a lot. Congratulations to my sister Marni who got married on Saturday. I am bummed I couldn’t be there for the wedding and I hear it was just beautiful.

Fast forward… my time in Bamako is over and I am now at Mary’s house in Kati. We had a salon night – I cut Mary’s hair and have henna setting in my hair as we speak (thanks to the package from Mom!) I will leave to go back to site tomorrow after we make one more trip to the fini kala yoro (tailoring place) to resolve some saggy crotch pants issues.  Women don’t really wear pants here so I guess I can’t blame him for making me men’s pants… but it’s not a cute look.

I hope you are all doing well and staying healthy in the states. I am officially over my cold and can now taste things again, just in time to devour some of the delicious candy in the packages from Mom & Dad and Allison. You guys are the best!

As you all enter the fall season please drink lots of pumpkin flavored coffee drinks and eat Einstein’s pumpkin shmear for me! And when the leaves change color for my friends in the north, take pictures and send them to me in an email, or throw some leaves in an envelope with a little update on your life and send it my way! I’ll probably get it two months later… seeing as that’s how the trend goes. For those who have sent me letters, I’ve only gotten one from Stef, so hopefully yours will find its way to Bamako somehow after floating around the planet for a while. I’ll be crossing my fingers.

Take care, stay safe, and thanks again for all of your support.

Jamie (Assetou Diarra)

Ameriki Kaw Ka Kene?

Hello Friends!
Greetings from Africa! I hope this finds you well and healthy in the states!
I am well and healthy here in Mali. Currently I am at my friend Mary’s house enjoying a little break from village life to do some banking and shopping in a bigger town and enjoy the amenities with which Mary has been provided by the NGO she works with.
Today marks 3 months since my stagemates and I stepped on the plane to begin our Peace Corps journey. It seems like that time has flown by, and at the same time some days have felt like they crawled slowly. After swearing in as volunteers on August 5th, we went off to our sites. I arrived at my site on August 10th, so next week Saturday (MARNI’S WEDDING DAY!!!) will mark one month at site. The first month is supposed to be pretty hard at site for everyone, and I proved to be no exception. The first two weeks were difficult to adjust to this new way of living without the comfort and support of the other people I had grown so close to during training. There were some rough days, but this past week I feel as though I reached a milestone in my comfort level and community integration.  My language level is improving slightly, and I feel less awkward in social interactions of day to day living.
The people of my village are all super friendly and welcoming, but part of the difficulties of the first two weeks came inadvertently from comparisons to the previous volunteer whom they adored, and their expectations from me. I don’t speak a lot of Bambara yet, but I do understand more than I can speak, and hearing “Oh, she doesn’t understand Bambara… She doesn’t understand French either? Oh, well the previous volunteer could speak French” started to grate at my confidence. I told myself and was reminded by friends and family that you just have to take it a day at a time and that the language and cultural knowledge will come bit by bit. It has, and every day is better than the day before. Now people say “Oh she can understand a little bit of Bambara, oh she’ll learn  little by little”, and even a few people have said “You’ve arrived” when I’ve made a funny joke in Bambara or understood a lot. That boosts my confidence a lot.
This past week has been really great in village. The end of Ramadan fasting was celebrated on Tuesday with what is called Selifitini, or a big feast and celebration. My villagers normally never eat meat except for holidays because it is too expensive, so they had meat with their meals and ate pasta and rice instead of the usual toh (mushy millet dish), which was a treat for all. The kids all got a new outfit, and the women and girls all put new braids in their hair and put on their best tailored complets. There was music, dancing, chatting and a lot of tea drinking. The kids went around giving blessings in response to which adults gave them small change and the kids bought little candies and gum from my host father who owns a small butiki out of one of the rooms of his house. In the morning, my host grandmother took me out to the field where many men and older women placed their prayer mats toward Mecca and prayed together for the holiday. They allowed me to pray with them which I was thankful to have the opportunity to do. They allowed some younger boys to pray with them too but they were making too much noise so the women would throw little pebbles at them while they prayed to keep them quiet.
The day before Selifitini was supposed to be a market day in a town 5k away. I was going to attend with my host mothers and host grandmother, but there was a death in one of the groups of houses near us, so we went over to give blessings instead of going to the market. Apparently there was a death of a child in a concession near ours the morning of Selifitini that my language tutor told me about, but I didn’t hear about it from anyone else and I am hesitant to bring it up for fear of not being able to communicate about such a sensitive matter in a language that I am not completely comfortable speaking.
In general things are great here and getting better all the time. I LOVE my kids in my village and all of the wives in my compound are really great. Malian women are so incredibly hard-working it impresses me every day. The men in my compound are great too and very helpful with any problems I have like helping to try and fix my bike, or patching my roof.
I have fallen in love with a baby goat whose mother died shortly after it was born. The kids know I love this goat so they bring it to me and they make sure I know when they feed it (they have to hold down a lactating female goat while the orphaned baby goat drinks its milk). I know that eventually this baby goat will grow up and become a part of some celebratory meal, but I can’t help but get attached to it. We call it Badenni (baby goat).
I am returning to my site tomorrow morning after banking with Mary, but I will have access to internet again the following week when I go into Bamako with some friends. Hopefully the letters and packages that have been sent will be waiting for me in Bamako too. Thank you so much for all of your support and love. I appreciate every bit! If you have time, shoot an email my way with what’s been going on in your life!
Take care!
Jamie (Assetou)

A lot of things!

Edit: I stole all these pictures from my friend Mary, whose sweet house I am in right now waiting to depart for my site.

Brooke, my fellow Baguineda Camp-er and me at a dance party under the straw roof (gwa)

wiping the sweat off my face after a three- legged race I forced everyone to participate in for my birthday.

The three legged race!

Sean and me in the garden the Baguineda Camp-ers created in Brooke's family's concession

Greetings friends!

I am writing from a very lonely Tubaniso training complex, as the majoirty of our stagemates left this morning to their various villages around Mali.
Normally the internet here is pretty slow, but with most everyone gone it is faster and I can take some time to write and update you on things going on here. This is a long post, so hang in there! There will be refreshments afterwards.

I am officially a Peace Corps volunteer now. Before we were trainees, but we swore in two days ago and took the oath to become volunteers. It feels good to be official! We swore in at the American Embassy (which is amazing) and spent the rest of the day at an American club in Bamako. I feel really spoiled whenever we go there. We sat by the pool, drank celebratory beers, and ate burgers, fries, and pizza. After the American club we were transported to our air conditioned hotel (with toilets and a shower!!!) in Bamako where we got ready, had a delicious dinner, and eventually went to a big outdoor bar where a bunch of excited current Peace Corps Volunteer were waiting for us. They gave us a round of applause upon entering and we all danced the night away and had a great time.
Our trainers also revealed to us our stage name (which is a really big deal and they had been keeping it a secret for a few weeks now). Our stage will be referred to as "Good fellas" after the gangster movie from the 90's. Our trainers decided on this name because they think we are all a close family and care for each other and others, and also because we like to have massive games of mafia where we fake kill each other off murder mystery style. I think we all are really happy with the stage name. It is going to stick with us for the next two years.
It was a truly surreal day in Mali. My life will be absolutely nothing like this in village where there is no electricity, so I was soaking it all in and enjoying every moment of air conditioning and real toilets.

There are 4 of us here now who belong in the Koulikoro region, the region our training complex and Bamako are in. We have some protocol meetings during the next two days in the town of Koulikoro and in Kati, the big city 27 k from my village, and soon I will be installed in my permanent town.

I was going to have to take public transport and then ride my bike 7k on some pretty muddy roads with some of my stuff to my village from the main road, but luckily since I was picked up last time I left my village I had left my bike in my room and now Peace Corps has to take me directly to my site by car. I am pretty excited about this as it is rainy season now and the dirt road is impassable by bike in some parts (you have to get off and walk through the mud)

Today the 4 of us went shopping in Bamako for items like buckets, brooms, mirrors, kitchen supplies, rice, shelving units, and some other things that will make our little mud huts a bit more homey. I have my camera and will try to take some shots of my village and house once I am all settled in. I am excited to go to village and see all of the people I had met a few weeks ago for site visit. I am worried that I will forget everyones names though. It is hard enough to remember 40 new people, but when their names are all Bambara names it makes it even more difficult. I will learn them dooni dooni (little by little) though. My family and friends at village like to quiz me a lot on people's names, so it will help to be forced to remember because I don't want to insult anyone by forgetting theirs.

I was able to talk to my parents on skype for a little bit tonight and it was nice to see their faces for a brief bit before the internet was too bad to have video. My mom is freaked out about me getting worms after she saw a scary tv show, but I think worms are pretty rare in volunteers here. I've remained pretty healthy, am maintaining my weight, and staying happy. These next three months are supposed to be the hardest part of the volunteer experience, so if I can make it through this next period, I will be golden.

If you are interested in helping me keep some of my sanity, feel free to send an email my way updating me on your life so I can check it during the two times I will have internet in the next 3 months on my trips to Bamako. Even better, send me a letter or pictures in the mail! I will respond to any and all letters and keep them close to my heart. If you are super interested in helping a sister out, you can send me a package, but they are pretty expensive to send (usually more than $20). You can pretty much just fill it with candy, dry black beans, and goldfish and I would probably cry from happiness :)

These next three months will partly be spent trying to figure out some of my community's needs and wants through assessment tools that the Peace Corps provides. We have an education assessment tool and a food security assessment tool. The food securty one will be interesting since it is hungry season right now (the time of year where new crops are planted but not ready for harvest and when the crops from the season before are running out). I think my village is pretty good at having gardens and crops that they can use and sell, most of the land around our houses is full of crops or gardens. I am hoping to have a vegetable garden if I can procure a little plot of land. Peace Corps gives us some cool resources for veggie gardening and the food secirty program will even give us some seeds for a personal garden and a community garden. One thing we learned about which is pretty cool and kind of gross is urine fertilizer. Basically you collect your pee in a jibidon (big water jug) and mix it with water in a certain ratio, let it sit for a bit, and use it on your vegetable garden to enrich the nutrients available to the plants. Apparently it works wonders! I'll let you know how it goes :) One of our volunteer trainers said that her villagers are super impressed by how well it works in her garden but are too apprehensive about collecting their own urine to do it themsleves. We all find this funny because people pretty much just pee anywhere so you wouldn't think they would have a problem with it. We will see what my village thinks!

Here are some other small projects that I might be able to work on:

The "tippy tap" - which is a handwashing station created from big sticks, a small jibidon (water jug), and a string system that creates a floor pedal. This is a great and inexpensive project that in some villages catches on like wildfire, which is good because it could mean more people washing their hands and dishes.

Murals - I can create various murals around about hand washing, breast feeding, the importance of trees, proper nutrition, a world map, etc.

Girls club - I would like to start a girl's soccer club or some sort of weekly girls meeting. I know the volunteer before me was starting life skills classes with some of the girls, and that would be a really neat project to continue.



Some bigger projects that I have been thinking about planning if community members are interested:

Getting women together to have a workshop on proper shea butter production.

Neem cream production - a natural bug repellant made from the leaves of a certain tree (malaria is a big problem in Mali).

Moringa tree planting - hold a workshop on the moringa tree, its nutritional benefits, and other benefits of planting (google "moringa tree" to learn about it, I guess it is a wonder tree!).

Bambara literacy classes - I would like to work with one of my volunteer friends who works with an awesome literacy program to get some people in my village trained on their literacy program and get some books for the kids and adults to use
- Also, a nonformal education program has some Bambara literacy materials for that may be helpful to procure for these kind of classes.

Take our daughters to work day - Maybe once a year, volunteers from around the different regions meet in a central area in their region with chosen girls from their village to have a girls empowerment weekend where girls can see other women that are educated and have good jobs.

Career fair - one of the volunteers on an education volunteer panel organized a career day where professional people came in and talked about the importance of education in how they got to where they are. This was a big hit and it showed the kids some options that they may have never known about before.

English language classes - I think the volunteer before me tought English once a week. This would be nice to continue if the want is still there in the community.

Once I do a community analysis of what the community perceives to be their needs, I can figure out what other big projects I can do. Some projects that I may think the commuity could benefit from may not be the same as what they think they can benefit from, and if they aren't on board, I won't get much support or have any sustainability in those projects that they are uninterested in.

One of the nice things about being a volunteer in the Koulikoro region is that we have easier access to the resources at the Peace Corps bureau in Bamako. There we can get things like books on how to teach life skills classes, tips on teaching English as a foreign language, we can learn about different trees, income generating activities, and other resources that will be helpful at site.

I am excited to begin this journey, and I appreciate all of your support and love! I'll post pictures the next time I go into Bamako in around a month so you can better understand my little place in Africa.

Until next time!

Jamie (Assetou) Casterton (Diarra) ;)

Almost a Real Volunteer!

Hello Friends!

I am back at Tubaniso, our training center near Bamako, Mali with the rest of my stage mates for a bit before we swear in this week and become real volunteers. We've been trainees for the past two months and will take an oath to swear in as volunteers on August 5th, then we will spend the day at "The American Club", a nice little oasis with a pool to hang out and enjoy our last moments together as a stage before we ship our to our permanent sites on Sunday. I am getting sad to be leaving all of these people I have grown so close to in the past two months, but I am excited for all of their potential and looking forward to hearing about the work they will do in their villages.

We are not allowed to travel for the first three months at site except to go into our banking towns twice during that time. Ultimately this will be helpful in our integration process, but it is going to be a hard three months adjusting to a new way of life and being thrown in the deep end when it comes to language. We can coordinate with other people who share our banking towns to see each other, but we won't have a chance to see any other volunteers in other regions. This is going to be a big change after spending every day with at least 7 other Americans in Baguineda Camp, my homestay village, or with 22 other Americans when we are here at Tubaniso.

The previous volunteer at my site before me had a blog which my parents told me about and which I started reading yesterday. It is beneficial to get some inside scoop on the village and the volunteers previous projects, but I want to make sure not to compare my service to hers too much.

That is all I will say for now... I will have a lot more to say once I go into Bamako for banking after being at site for a while! I hope you are all doing well in America!

P.S. for now, my mailing address is the same as before except that now you can write "PCV" next to my name instead of "Trainee"!

Jamie Casterton - PCV

B.P. 85

Bamako, Mali

West Africa

Thank you for all of your support and love!

~Jamie (Assetou)

Oh hey!

Hello friends and family! Greetings from Africa!

Life is going well here. I am in Mali's capital at the Peace Corps office right now after a 3 day stay at my permanent site (check out my facebook for the name of the town where I will be placed, I don't think I am allowed to write it here).

My village was very welcoming and I felt at home already, despite the Grand Canyon of a languge divide that exists between the villagers and me. Dooni dooni (little little) my language will get better.

My new host family is very patient with me and they invite me to sit and chat. They say that if I sit and chat every night my Bamanankan will get better very quickly.

From what I gathered so far, my new host dad has at least 2 wifes, but might have more. One wife has 3 kids, and the other has 4. There are several family groups in my compound, and several other compounds in my village that are spread out. It was around 20 minute walk from my house to my dugutiki (village chief) 's house yesterday.

It is definitely a change from my homestay village. This new village is much smaller by population and more agriculture centered.

There was a volunteer there before me and I thank her little soul because it seems like she set some good boundaries. The kids don't go into my room like at my homestay, and the kids in the village don't call me "Toubabu" like the kids in the homestay village do.

My name changed again and now my permanent name is Assetou Diarra "Eye-sit-too Jar-ah".
Most of the men in my village have the last name Diarra, so I will fit in better and be able to joke more. I'm not sure if I mentioned it, but Malians have something in their culture called joking cousins where based on your last name you call people bean eaters, donkeys, or other slams when you meet them. Certain last names joke with each other and you can count on your joking cousins for anything. It is kind of complicated, but google it and learn more!

We go back to Tubaniso, our training center tomorrow and will be there until the 19th. I am excited to spend my birthday with my friends here. After that we will go back to our homestay villages for a few weeks, swear in as volunteers around August 5th and will go back to our permanent sites after that for our 2 year stay. Everything is happening very quickly and it is kind of overwhelming to think about, so I just take it a day at a time.

I hope you are all doing well in the states. I will know my permanent address soon and will post it on facebook. For now you can mail me letters or packages at the address I put in one of my facebook notes. I miss you all dearly. Thanks for your love and support. Please send me positive Bambara learning vibes so that I can communicate ;)

Happy birthday to my sister Wendy on July 19th!!!

Love, Jamie (Assetou)

Hey Friends!

Hello friends!

Sorry for the long delay between posts. We have been at our homestay villages for a few weeks and have not had access to internet. Things are going really well and I am enjoying myself fully.

Right now our group is back at our training center for two days, and we will return to our homestay villages on Wednesday.

I love my homestay village, and host family. The people in my host family that live at home right now consists of my host dad, his two wives, a host brother and sister, and a niece. My Malian name is Assita Keita. (sounds like eye-see-tah kay-tah). Up until yesterday I thought my name was Assetou, but I was wrong. I am named after my host sister, who we call Pai. She is a little troublemaker but I love her.

There are 8 trainees in my village, 6 in one close by, and 7 in one a little further away. We get together every few days for common training sessions, but most days we study language in our villages and hang out with our families. I am studying a language called Bambara which is really fun to speak. I am getting better every day but it is still hard to communicate with my host family. Most of the time I just say "N m'a faamu, Haketo" (I don't understand, sorry) and laugh.

Yesterday I went to the sugu (market) with my host mom and she helped me get my sandal fixed, and I walked around with her while she bought spices, meats, vegetables, and mangoes.

I thought I was going to have to eat meat while in Mali but my host family is super accommodating and I haven't had to eat any yet with the exception of broths mostly.

I have been fortunate so far that I have not been really sick with diarrhea, but a lot of my friends have been sick a lot. I think part of the reason I have been lucky is because my family serves me food in my own bowl, and I don't share food out of the communal bowl with my siblings, who don't wash their hands normally.

My village is awesome even though some volunteers warned us going there that it was really dirty and the kids were mean.

It is true that is is dirty, but there is no trash collection system here or plumbing, so it is to be expected. The kids are really sweet for the most part. It is sometimes overwhelming to go outside because the kids all chant "toubabu" (white or foreign person) but they really are just want our attention and stop when we wave at them or tell them our Malian names. Now a lot of kids near my house know my name and will yell my name instead of "toubabu".

There are some amazing rock formations in our village, and there is a small village nearby that the trainees in my village and I go to to climb on and look a the farmland and canal. It is really peaceful and a nice escape from the constant attention we are paid in our own village.

All in all, I am having a wonderful time. The trainees in my village all have great attitudes and are a really valuable support system to me. Really everyone in my stage class is amazing. I feel really lucky to be serving with these people.

We aren't doing any work to improve village life or starting projects right now since this period is focused on language acquisition and cultural integration and familiarity. We have had a lot of good trainings on gender development, water and sanitation, and education among others.

In around 10 days we will find out where our permanent site is. I am excited to find out, and also a little sad that our training will be over and our stage class will part ways... but that is when we can really start our service and learn our new community's needs.

I will write more later about some of the issues specific to Malian education, which is the sector in which I will be working. I will not be teaching, but rather working to improve the access and quality of education in my village.

Thanks again for all of your support! I really appreciate the messages and comments on here and facebook. It is nice to know I have support back home even though I am so far away.

I would love to receive letters and will write you back!

Ok I am going to end now because the electricity went out and I thought I lost the post... thankfully it saved!

Love you all!

~Jamie (aka Assita)

Waaahooooo! Africa!

I ni Sogoma my friends!

Our group of 23 made it to Mali safely! We are staying in a beautiful compound, 3 people to a hut. The weather is hot, but not unbearable. We all slept well last night after long flights
I just took my language placement test in French and failed... don't tell Miss Haan! But it is okay because I will probably be learning Bambara and I am already better at that than French.

Our stage (The people who came with me, pronounced like in French) is really cool. I couldn't be happier with the people I will be spending the next two years with. There are even some cuties ;) Our group motto is "Things are about to get real" and "Things just got real". We have some funny kids in the group.

The negens (n like in onion) or bathrooms haven't been as bad as described, but I've also had experience doing business in the woods camping, so it's not much more difficult than that.
The food they have been feeding us is very good.

Last night there was not a veggie option, so I picked around the meat... I'm scared to take a real mouthfull, but I know it is inevitable.
I love you all so much and it makes me feel really loved that some of you have followed my blog. I am so grateful for your support.

Everything is better than I imagined, and I'm sure will continue to be great... until we all get diarrhea :)

Love, Jamie.

P.S. The keyboard here is really sticky from the dust, so Lily, you are def not allowed to judge my spelling now!

On Our Way to Mali

Soooo... the adventure begins.
Right now I am in the airport in Washington DC with my fellow Peace Corps trainees waiting to be able to check in for our flight and go through security.
Yesterday we met at a hotel in DC for orientation and safety training and to turn in paperwork. Normally there are around 40 or so people in each stage, but there are 23 in ours. Around half are Water and Sanitation volunteers, and half are Education volunteers like me.
Most people are around my age, there are no married couples, and there is one woman who is older who did Peace Corps in the 60's and is back for another go at it.
Everyone is really amazing, welcoming, and nice. We all (with the exception of Renate, the previous volunteer) went our last night for dinner and drinks. Already we are bonding really well.
It is around 3:30 now and our flight leaves around 10, so we have some time to kill.
We have a layover in Paris and will then head to Bamako, the capital city of Mali.
Some volunteers are getting nervous to arrive. I feel fine now and am excited for the adventure, but maybe I'll get nervous when we get there. We shall see!
The training center we will be staying at has internet supposedly so I may post soon.

If you would like to send me letters or treats you can send them to the address below. If you send me letters I will totally send you letters back. We can be pen pals :)
If you do send a package, make sure you insure it and track it. Some people have told me that uninsured and tracked packages have a way of dissappearing.

The address is:

Jamie Casterton
Corps de la Paix
B.P. 85
Bamako, Mali West Africa

I hope you are all doing well in Minnesota, Florida, and Michigan (or wherever else)!
Love you all and thanks for your support! P.S. You are invited to come visit me in Mali!

Love, Jamie

p.s. I don't have spell check... so don't judge me!

Less Than Two Months!

June 1st is fast approaching. Previously I felt like time was standing still, and now it seems like it is slipping by quickly. Things I want to accomplish/do before I leave:

1. Take the GRE (and rock it)


2. Learn a good amount of French


3. Learn a lot of Bambara (the language most spoken in Mali)


4. Trip to Florida (planned)


5. Trip to Michigan and to hike with Steve on the Appalachian Trail


6. Enjoy the Minnesota outdoors as much as possible!

I've been reading blogs of Mali Peace Corps Volunteers (PCVs) and I think I need to stop so I don't get too many expectations in my head of how the experience will be. It is helpful however, to look at packing lists to see what PCVs have found useful to bring. I'm looking forward to this new adventure!